A common misconception but let us clear it for you: Banarasi is not just a silk saree. It comes in four different fabric variants with the differing design process. Here is how they are categorized:
1. Fabric Variants:
Here are the different fabric variants used to make sarees.
● Pure Silk (Katan):
Katan is a plain silk fabric, woven with pure silk threads, that are later woven into sarees. Although looms are used today for weaving these sarees, in ancient times, they were handwoven using a handloom.
Shattir is the most abundant type of material used for Banarasi sarees. This is the sole fabric used to create exclusive and contemporary Banarasi saree designs under the name Banarasi.
● Organza or Kora with Silk and Zari:
You know them as intricately and richly woven Brocades, where the weft and warp pattern different patterns and designs. In this type of Banarasi Saree, gold-coated silver threads are woven around silk yarn to create the Zari Brocade.
● Georgette Banarasi Saree:
A popular choice for contemporary Banarasi, Georgette is a finely woven light fabric with plain and simple weave.
2. Design Process
Here are the different Design Process used to make sarees.
Believed to be the oldest of the Banaras brocades, Jangla sarees are woven in colorful silk threads. They get their name from the design patterns that distinguish from other types of Banarasi sarees- intricate Jangla vegetation motifs across the length of the saree. With unique designs and extreme detailing, this luxurious fabric is perfect for bridal Banarasi saree.
Tanchoi, with its beautiful Jamawar style paisley woven pallus, is another excellent choice for wedding Banarasi sarees. Artisans create this type with colorful weft silk yarns, often adorning it with Zari paisleys or labyrinths with criss-cross patterns.
These are the less expensive versions of the above types and Jamdani silk sarees. Artisans mix cotton and silk and use cutwork technique on a plain textured fabric. Some of the popular motifs for cutwork Banarasi saree are jasmine, marigold flowers, creepers, and leaves.
Tissue Banarasi sarees have the most delicate look of them all. These delicately woven sarees have golden zari weft, adding a sheen to the saree. One of the popular designs in this type includes beautiful zari lotus and cutwork water droplets with self-woven paisleys on the borders.
Butidar sarees are the most popular and distinctive type of lot. They are woven with a combination of silver, gold, and silk threads, where gold is darker in the shade than silver. Due to this, this variety of brocade is referred to as Ganga-Jamuna by Banarasi weavers.
The Perfect Blouse for Your Banarasi Saree
Banarasi is the new guinea pig to all fashionista’s crazy fashion experiments. As such, when it comes to finding a blouse for your saree, it can be a tough choice. Here are some blouse patterns you can check out:
● Embroidered Blouse:
These bring out the grandeur of your wedding Banarasi saree and the overall bridal look. Embroidered blouses come in a variety of patterns, ranging from extensive stonework on the sleeves and neckline to traditional motifs and artwork on the sleeves.
● Simple Sleeveless Blouse:
From Shilpa Shetty Kundra to Shanvi Shrivastava, celebrities have rocked their traditional Banarasi Sarees with the unconventional sleeveless blouses. Whether you are matching your red Banarasi saree or going for a contrast color, you can never go wrong with a simple sleeveless blouse. To get the look right, it is always to for plain material over designs.
● Full Sleeve Plain Blouse:
The charm of a full-sleeved blouse never goes away. However, with a banarasi, especially in plain fabrics, the magic of these blouses are evident in the subtle class and regality the whole look exudes. Pair it with a kundan set and a low bun with flowers and you are all set to walk the red carpet with style. Not to mention, winter weddings!
● Blouse in Contrasting or Lighter Shade:
If you prefer mix-and-match fashion, then go for a blouse that is either a lighter or completely different shade than your saree. A good example would be wearing a royal blue Banarasi with floral motifs with a bright pink blouse. Alternatively, you can wear that forest green saree with a blouse in sage green. However, make sure you choose a color that compliments your saree color.
● Elbow Length Blouse with Matching Borders:
Matching your sleeve border with your saree fall is one of the most popular blouse fashions, regardless of the type of saree. However, with a Banarasi, this look is one that can always be found in the vogue. The sleeve length of this blouse need not necessarily reach upto the elbow, you can always opt for bicep length and still rock this look.
● Brocade Blouse:
Brocade blouses are perfect for the subtle party look with the simplicity and dainty vibes they give off, especially when paired with the exquisitely embroidered Banarasi. Whether you wearing a matching one or mix it up with contrasting shades, brocade blouses are a sure way to increase your style-o-meter.