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A Banarasi sari is a sari made in Varanasi, an ancient city which is also called Benares (Banaras). The saris are among the finest saris in India and are known for their gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk and opulent embroidery. The saris are made of finely woven silk and are decorated with intricate design, and, because of these engravings, are relatively heavy.

Historians have been able to trace silk work to Vedic times. Hiranya – literally translated as cloth made from gold – finds mention in the revered Rig Vedas as the attire of the Gods. And some scholars believe that this description comes close to the embellished zari work, synonymous with Banarasi silk sarees. The timeless Jataka Tales and Pali texts support the evidence of a bustling cloth trade on the banks of the holy Ganga, in Kashi.

The Banarasi saree is divided into categories like Tissue, Butidar, Cutwork, Tanchoi, and Jangal. Tissue sarees are woven with golden Zari Brocade to add sheen to the saree. The saree’s borders and pallu are patterned with self-woven paisleys. Butidar sarees are woven with brocade threads silver, silk, and gold. The darker shade of gold compared to the silver threads has earned the brocade patterning the name Ganga-Jumuna.

Vibrant colors, rustling silks, glistening accents, intricate tapestry-like motifs – rooted in tradition, dipped in regality – well, these are the rich Banarasi weaves. The ‘Khandaani’ Indian heirlooms preserved for generations, also known to have found mentions in the legendary texts of the Mahabharata, Banarasis represent a hallowed slice of our history – that continues to evolve.

A common misconception but let us clear it for you: Banarasi is not just a silk saree. It comes in four different fabric variants with the differing design process. Here is how they are categorized:

Increasing scams can make it hard to spot an original Banarasi saree from fakes. However, a major indicator that can help you choose an authentic one is the heavy thread work on the reverse side of the saree. Keep in mind that this, too, can be manipulated by crafty men. Therefore, a sure indicator of an original is the Geographical Indication (GI) tag found on them, meant to protect the artisans and buyers.